If, over these last few weeks, we’d received a penny for every time some non-Lichfeldian had asked us “so what exactly IS Lichfield’s connection to the Titanic?”, we’d have enough to put down a deposit on a packet of mini-Cheddars. No reader of this blog will need any further explanation of Lichfield’s role in everyone’s favourite maritime tragedy: after all, how many other landlocked cathedral cities have a miniature replica of the Atlantic Ocean in the town centre?
Anna Seward’s celebrated 18th century campaign to have Minster Pool remodelled in the exact form of the North Atlantic pays dividends to this day. (According to Beresford’s History of the Diocese of Lichfield, the sluice behind Chapter’s Tea Shop represents Greenland. The duck nesting-platform that originally represented the Faroes was removed by civic engineers in the mid-19th century). And as night fell on the centenary of the Titanic’s sinking, it looked appropriately bleak and chilly. There was even some wreckage floating on the surface; the resident ducks were investigating, like feathery, sentient versions of the Carpathia.
No, we on Beacon Street are firmly convinced of Lichfield's place at the very heart of the Titanic story. Southampton, Liverpool, Belfast, Hanley and other such pretenders can just get behind us and join the queue. So on Saturday 14th April we hurried to join the crowds gathering around Captain Smith’s statue in Museum Gardens.
The Rugeley Sea Cadets looked very much the part, as did the emergency flare, fired into the darkening sky soon after 8.30pm.
This was a little earlier than the Titanic’s regrettable mishap; but of course, Lichfield City Council organises things rather more carefully than White Star Line. “Hope you liked the firework display” commented a gilet-clad cove with a microphone. A minute’s silence followed, before a solitary violinist struck up with Nearer My God to Thee – best known as the theme music to the film The Poseidon Adventure.
Enter the Rugeley Sea Cadets, impeccably turned out and looking very much the part. The idea, we understood, was that they’d solemnly place 1500 candles around the base of Captain Smith’s statue. Somewhere in the planning stage, the candles had been – perfectly sensibly – changed to battery operated LED tealights. Actual candles wouldn’t have stood much chance in the damp, icy blasts that were now sweeping across the park from the arctic wastes of Leomansley. “I’m freezing to death” commented one lady in the crowd. Kathleen Scott – the sculptor of the statue, and widow of Scott of the Antarctic – would surely have sympathised.
The cadets marched smartly back and forth, collecting and placing the tealights, manfully embodying the Captain’s final words: “Be British”. From the silence, a voice was heard: “Ooh, look, kids, it’s your uncle Colin”. Uncle Colin gamely lifted a tealight to his face, illuminating his features from below to sinister effect. And the one-man-band played on: by now, segueing deftly into the very song played by the band on the Titanic in those final, terrifying moments: My Heart Will Go On. A mood of solemn reverence descended, as the assembled company remembered Leonardo de Caprio’s ultimate sacrifice.
By now it was really quite dark, and it was becoming apparent that whereas one LED tealight alone gives a passable imitation of a flickering candle; 300 of them, in one place, actually start blinking in unison. In the twilight, Captain Smith appeared to be bathed in the flashing orange glare of a motorway hazard warning sign. If only they’d had motorway hazard warning signs on the Titanic that fatal night. It could all have been so different.
It was also increasingly clear that – 40 minutes in, and with barely a quarter of the pedestal be-tealighted – we were in for the long haul. The candle-placing was a poetic gesture, the cadets were unflinching in their duty, and the violinist played on heroically as temperatures plummeted. We can only hope that he was wearing fingerless gloves. But it was hard to avoid the faint (and doubtless deeply unfair) suspicion that no-one had actually sat down and worked out how long, exactly, the ceremonial placing of 1500 LED tealights would take.
It seemed we weren’t alone. All around, the darkness was filled with people crying out in despair and, weakened by cold, finally slipping away into the freezing depths of the Lichfield night. At around 9.40pm, and with (at a rough count) 600 candles still to go, we too abandoned the unequal struggle and retreated to the George and Dragon for a stiff whisky. On ice.